Bedding geraniums, commonly referred to as pelargoniums, are a favorite for summer gardens.
These plants are straightforward to cultivate and come in a wide range of colors. You can choose trailing types perfect for hanging baskets, upright varieties for borders and containers, and some even boast delightful scents like rose or lemon. I've discovered Cola-scented pelargoniums too, making them a delightful addition to any garden.
Since pelargoniums aren't frost-resistant, it's wise to take cuttings from healthy shoots in late summer or early fall. This way, you can ensure you have more plants ready before colder weather sets in.
Harvesting Softwood Pelargonium Cuttings

Softwood cuttings come from new, tender growth that hasn't hardened yet. This type of propagation is a straightforward and efficient method for expanding your collection.
Typically, softwood cuttings are obtained from herbaceous perennials like pelargoniums, penstemons, and osteospermums, as well as deciduous shrubs such as fuchsias, hydrangeas, and buddleja.
Timing for Taking Pelargonium Cuttings

Once your pelargoniums are thriving, take cuttings early in the morning when plants are well-hydrated. Cut about 4 inches of healthy, non-flowering new growth. Aim for three or four shoots to avoid stressing the parent plant.
Steps for Taking Pelargonium Cuttings

Begin by filling four-inch pots with a seed potting mix, incorporating either horticultural grit or vermiculite for better drainage.
Next, use clean, sharp pruners or a garden knife to cut 4-inch lengths of pelargonium growth. Follow these straightforward steps:
- Remove the lower leaves from each cutting to prevent them from rotting in the damp compost.
- Optionally, dip the cut end in hormone rooting compound to support root growth, though pelargoniums typically root easily without this step.
- Place the cuttings in the potting mix and water them lightly.
- Keep the pots in a warm, bright location, out of direct sunlight. Maintain moisture in the compost, ensuring it doesn't become waterlogged.
- Unlike some other cuttings, pelargonium cuttings should not be enclosed in plastic as their leaves may develop mildew.
Transplanting Pelargonium Cuttings

After a few weeks in a warm, well-lit spot with just damp compost, your cuttings will start to root and grow. Maintain them in their pots, watering when the soil feels dry. In about 8-10 weeks, they should have developed adequate root systems and be ready for repotting.

When your cuttings resemble mini versions of mature plants, it's time to transfer them to individual containers with all-purpose potting soil. Choose a quality mix, like this one by Harris.

- Gently water the cuttings before sliding them out of the pot all at once.
- Carefully separate them, checking that the roots are healthy.
- Pot each cutting in a container with all-purpose compost, pressing it down gently, and water thoroughly.
- Place them in a location that is bright and frost-free, avoiding direct hot sunlight that could scorch the leaves.

Care for Pelargonium Cuttings in Winter
For colder USDA hardiness zones, pot up geraniums from the garden and move them indoors.
To winterize your geraniums, including cuttings, keep them in a frost-free area through winter to prevent damage from the cold.
A heated greenhouse, porch, or cool room with good light is ideal for maintaining your cuttings' health.
If using an unheated greenhouse, consider covering your pelargonium cuttings with a frost cloth, such as the one by Alpurple. Remove the cover when temperatures rise to avoid condensation that can lead to mold.
Your pelargonium cuttings will go dormant in winter, so only water if they begin to droop—this might only be necessary a couple of times before they resume growth in spring.
As spring nears, your winterized cuttings may show some growth or even flower buds. If this happens, pinch them off as they can drain energy that would be better used for healthy stem and leaf growth.